Review: The Shoals: First In

Why book? There’s something that reads as distinctly “beach motel” about The Shoals, and in this case, that’s a very good thing—though it’s neither a motel nor quite on the beach. Set on a marina on Peconic Bay, about 20 minutes from the easternmost tip of the North Fork, this breezy, 20-suite hotel evokes the peninsula's sophisticated but decidedly laid-back attitude, complete with a local- and female-owned oyster operation, a lobster roll– and soft serve–slinging food truck, a private 20-slip dock, and even its own vintage charter boat. Set the scene Lodged way down the North Fork’s Main Road—one of two main arteries that run through the 30-mile peninsula—on a dockside marina between the villages of Southold and Greenport, The Shoals feels like a world all its own. That’s not to say it’s isolated—it’s barely a 10-minute ride on one of the hotel’s pale blue beach cruisers, past scenic farm stands and unfurling vineyards, to the quaint town of Southold—or that it’s quiet. With a spate of picnic tables spread across its grassy front lawn, set just behind said food truck, and a single-file line of lounge chairs flanking one of its water-facing sides, there’s a decidedly communal vibe to this place, with plenty of spaces to gather naturally with your fellow man. By night, there’s a fire pit encircled by deck chairs outside by the water; and the Lounge, the hotel’s indoor common area, with its warm Thomas Juul-Hansen-designed interiors (think large, sink-into-me leather couches facing one another, and wicker-and-wood seats placed side-by-side) and grand piano it feels like a place where you’d actually mingle with other people—and maybe even join in an after-dinner singalong, provided you’ve had enough local Chardonnay. As such, the hotel enjoys pretty broad appeal: You’re as likely to see gaggles of 30-something friends on a weekend getaway as you are retired, happily sun-tanned metro-area couples well into their 50s. The one thing they all have in common is that they’re looking for an escape from the city—a place to veg out while still feeling clued into some kind of happening summer scene that's not the Hamptons. This is a stylish, knowing crowd, but crucially, not an obnoxious one. Above all, though, you’re likely to see bona fide boat people here: As the only hotel on the North Fork with boat slips, The Shoals—a so-called “boatel”—will draw in guests who can’t wait to inaugurate the summer season on the water, as well as locals eager for a place to stop and hang during their own regular outings. The backstory The hotel—set in a rehabilitated building that once housed the local fish market—is owned and operated by a group of longtime Southold residents. But it’s not their first go at opening a business in the area: They’re also behind a few other beloved Southold outfits, including the North Fork Table & Inn, where the kitchen was recently taken over by chef and restaurateur John Fraser; and Southold General, a new, Elizabeth Roberts-designed general store that sells coffee, breakfast treats, sandwiches, and more alongside a bevy of curated local products. (French pastry chef François Payard, who developed the menu for The Shoals, is also behind the store’s delectable pastry and gelato program.) Right next door to the hotel, the owners have partnered with a female-owned family business, Little Ram Oyster Company, on a terrific oyster program, headed by local couple Elizabeth Peeples and Stefanie Bassett. The two took over the historic waterfront building next to the hotel, which Juul-Hansen also stepped in to help renovate. The business is now fully run out of the building, from which the two also hock their wares—unshucked oysters, along with kits to help open them—and supply the Food Truck with their goods. They also host offsite farm tours and private shucking workshops. The mollusks are also a boon to the local ecosystem; each one can filter some 50 gallons of water per day, ridding it of pollutants like nitrogen. It’s clear the owners are committed to the area and proud of its heritage—through these businesses, as well as through their choice to sell products from local producers and makers (North Fork wineries One Woman, Raphael, and Sparkling Pointe; plus canned cocktails from the Long Island-based LiV, and locally crafted body butters from Rica), and from the surrounding New York area (like breezy shirts from the Brooklyn-based Yesaet) in the Bait Shop. It all feels very considered, very deliberate, and very supportive of the region, which I appreciated. The rooms If the Jetsons chilled out and took a summer vacation—that’s what first came to mind when I stepped into our suite. With modular furniture, white wallpaper that evokes shiplap, leather pulls on the cabinetry, and light wood floors, the space called to a sort of coastal millennialism—and turned out to be the perfect retreat after a day in the sun. I liked the small nautical touches throughout, which offered just a hint of place: braided natural rugs in the living and bedroom areas; a rope-accented hanging lamp; seafoam-colored shower tiles; a rattan-scented candle that smelled like a beach house after a rainstorm. There are just 20 suites across the property, spread across two levels, all with exterior entrances. Our spacious one-bedroom suite on the second floor—a Terrace King—felt like just the right amount of space for two people, with a kitchenette that included flatware and stemware (and a deep sink in which to wash them), a mini fridge, and even an oven and electric stove top, plus a breakfast nook with a cozy, cushioned banquette. All that was in addition to the bedroom area and proper living space, which included a small couch, two chairs, and a coffee table—plus a semi-private outdoor balcony with a sliding glass door that overlooked much of the property, including the waterfront. I loved retreating to there at the end of the day, after a hot shower, with a glass of wine in hand, and I appreciated the wooden walls that separated us from our neighbors. (That said, nearly every balcony, and on the lower level, patio, is open to the hotel parking lot, so you can watch everyone coming and going—but they can also see you.) Our king-size bed was uber-comfortable, with fresh white Frette linens and a soft, Nordic Knots blanket, and was separated from the living area by a linen curtain—a handy feature if you want to nap while your partner reads in the living room, as we discovered. The air conditioning was also strong—a must for me when I sleep, especially in the heat of the summer. I found myself searching for more USB outlets, though; and while I appreciated the Malin + Goetz amenities, I would’ve loved a little supply of their sunscreen and aloe vera, too. (Because whew, did I pick up a nice burn on the charter boat!) Food and drink French chef François Payard is behind The Shoals’ tight but tasty menu, which includes a selection of the chef’s famed pastries, baked at Southold General and brought in for breakfast—blueberry-thyme muffins, flaky croissants—alongside skyr and fresh fruit, and a smattering of salads, sandwiches, and lobster rolls sold out of the Food Truck in the afternoon. The hotel packed a few of said salads in the picnic lunch they prepared for our day on the boat, including the niçoise and the chicken Caesar, both of which were bright and delicious, as well as a few of the fantastic lobster rolls (which we gratefully found were full of actual lobster meat). The Food Truck also serves up Little Ram oysters; on Wednesdays, it even converts into a “Shuck Truck” for a full-on oyster happy hour. And just behind the check-in desk, the Bait Shop sells a smattering of beverages, many of them local, like the Haus Pils from the nearby Greenport Harbor Brewing Company, along with Sparkling Pointe’s bright rosé and One Woman chardonnay—again, the perfect purchase for a pre-dinner tipple on your balcony, though the Lounge also has a full bar. We also checked out Southold General, the owners' breezy new grab-and-go store in town. The spot, which opens up onto Einstein Square, feels like a natural gathering point for the hamlet—locals flitted in and out for cups of its freshly brewed coffee and pastries, or enjoyed their goodies at one of the tables on the square. My husband and I sampled a few of its ready-to-order breakfast “sandwiches,” including the croque monsieur and avocado toast, both of which were very tasty. (In fact, I think I'm going to put sun-dried tomato spread on my avo toast from here on out—genius.) And that Saturday night, we enjoyed an incredible dinner at North Fork Table & Inn, also under the same ownership, where the food was both creative and perfectly executed, and a spunky, passionate sommelier took us on a journey with extraordinary local and global wines. (The restaurant also has a food truck, but we weren’t able to try it. Next time!)  The neighborhood/area The hotel is about a mile up the road from the hamlet of Southold, a place so genuinely charming that I felt the sudden urge to uproot my life when we were there. Dotted with thrift stores, faded-out pharmacies, deli markets, and shabby-chic design shops, the town’s stretch of Main Road felt relaxed and truly local. I could envision myself as a regular there, parking in one of its street-side spots in the summer, music blasting, then slamming the car door and waving hello to various shop owners and residents as I grabbed an iced coffee from Southold General. It just felt like Small-Town USA, in the best possible way—so much so that I’m almost loathe to write about it! Suffice it to say, the town—and the surrounding area—feels like a major selling point for the hotel, whose guests can and should hop on one of its bikes and go exploring. Of course, there are also plenty of other nearby attractions to keep you busy while you’re here: the town of Greenport to the east, plus a seemingly endless selection of farm stands and wineries worth checking out (you are on the North Fork wine trail, after all), and unsurprisingly, most visitors to the area schedule their weekends around wine tastings. The service Service is unfussy and unobtrusive, but knowing. You get the sense that the staff has worked with high-level clientele before, and they’re prepared for most anything. If you need a local restaurant recommendation, they’ll give you five—and they’ll probably pick up the phone and call whichever one you pick, too. In my experience, their services were put to best use when it came to getting out on the water; they can arrange a boat trip of varying lengths for you on the hotel’s Chris-Craft vessel, or work to find something different in the area that better suits your (and your friends’ or family’s) needs. For families As mentioned, even the one-bedroom suites at The Shoals are pretty large—so I think you could bring your kids along for the weekend and, in a two-bedroom suite with a kitchenette, have ample space for all. That said, I might tend toward bringing slightly older children—that way, they can ride off into town on a bike, unsupervised, while you spend the afternoon on a lounge chair by the water, swilling hard seltzers. All told, there are plenty of family-friendly activities both at the hotel and in this area at large—farm tours, berry picking, a few calm, quiet beaches open to non-residents—and the hotel itself has lawn games like croquet, plus board games, bikes, and boating, including educational oyster tours with the women of Little Ram.  Eco effort I didn’t spot much in the way of eco-friendliness, though I don’t recall seeing all much plastic, if any—but the hotel’s partnership with Little Ram is a true environmental boon for the area, given oysters’ contribution to the local ecosystem and their ability to filter pollutants out of large quantities of water. Anything left to mention? Whatever you do, don’t skip the opportunity to go out on the hotel’s charter boat—a vintage Chris-Craft named, aptly, Endless Summer. With gorgeous, creamy Ultraleather and wood interiors, and a sleek, efficient build, the boat felt like something you might get spirited around in at Cannes, or on Lake Como. I felt positively glamorous flitting around the Peconic Bay and its surrounds courtesy of this dual V8-engine cruiser. I’ve never been a boat person, per se, but this one day on the water turned both me and my husband into true converts. One thing I would've loved to see here, though, was a pool. Sitting on those lounge chairs gets awfully hot, and you're not really swimming in the waters near the hotel, because boats are coming in and out.